The new generation of Bordeaux reds breaking all the rules

Just when you thought you knew everything there is to know about Bordeaux wines, we’re here to surprise you with contemporary reds and unexpected cuvées. Fruiter, fresher, and with a new character: the new generation of Bordeaux reds reflects their terroir, the personalities of the winemakers who create them and the ongoing changes in practices in vineyards across the region. It’s clear that Bordeaux is changing.

Fresh, affordable and unexpected

Bordeaux’s new reds are full of surprises, challenging long-held perceptions of the region. These wines are supple, fruity reds, with ageing more conducive to less oaky wines, ready to drink young and are suitable for more informal occasions. This is a result of winemakers taking a less is more approach. Winemakers are adapting their process to include shorter maceration periods, which reduces tannins extraction, gentler extractions and less barrel ageing, with more winemakers choosing to age the wine in vats and amphorae.

Contrary to popular belief, Bordeaux winegrowers are innovative, adaptable and enjoy the challenge of trying new methods and tasting the results. Currently, 89% of the Bordeaux vineyard is planted with red grape varieties, with Merlot occupying 66% of the surface area.

However, it is the new varieties and the reaffirming of old favourites such as Petit Verdot, Carménère and Malbec that are changing things. This wide range of grape varieties leads to more options for new blends and an increase of single-variety cuvées. There is also an upsurge in sulfur-free, vegan and committed cuvées with 75% of the Bordeaux vineyard committed to an environmental approach. This new contemporary style of wine is not only limited to what’s inside the bottle. These modern Bordeaux reds are often distinguished by labels that break from tradition: creative, colourful and non-Bordeaux shaped bottles, they stand out on the shelves and often express the personality of the winemaker.

Cuvées from modern Bordeaux are a great option if you’re tempted to explore lighter bodied reds with low levels of tannin. This modern style of red wine can also be enjoyed chilled and is even encouraged, with some styles tasting slightly better when served cooler.

Big News in the Bordeaux Vineyard

There is much to be excited about when it comes to the future of Bordeaux, especially the approval of the AOC Entre-Deux-Mers Red from the 2023 vintage. Initially recognised by the decree of 1937 with the colour white, Entre-Deux-Mers red wines will also be recognised as such from the next harvest in 2023, an historic development for the Bordeaux vineyards.

This will enhance the value of the wines as a new story begins and winegrowers and merchants take on an exciting challenge.

The impact of climate change is forcing the winemaking industry to review its practices and explore new opportunities. While Merlot continues to behave extremely well in the heat, new grape varieties have been approved in the Bordeaux – Bordeaux Supérieur AOC to counter the effects. Four black grape varieties (Arinarnoa, Castets, Touriga Nacional and Marselan) and two white varieties (Alvarinho and Liliorila) already authorised have been introduced to the vineyards. At the end of June, the INAO ruled in favour of including a new variety, which is resistant to mildew and powdery mildew. The new specifications incorporating this grape variety, and the definitive authorisation to plant it, should see the light of day by the end of 2023. This offers a more sustainable model of agriculture with varieties more resistant to climate disasters and diseases, resulting in lesser need treatments. This greater diversity of grape varieties and the inclusion of the classics offers new possibilities to the winemakers and muiplies the options to create new blends and surprise the consumer.

Explore a new generation of Bordeaux in this selection

Château Fleur Haut Gaussens, 2016, Bordeaux Supérieur

Hervé Lhuillier’s family estate produces atypical wines that are full of personality. They have spent several generations learning to understand, respect and follow their terroir, allowing each vintage to write its own story. This is a lightly-oaked red with sleek, blackcurrant acidity that gives it lustre and sheen. It’s bursting with opulent cassis and sweet black cherries, combined with ripeness resulting in the sleek, upright quality that is expected of Bordeaux. A blend of 85% Merlot, 5% Cabernet Sauvignon, 5% Cabernet Franc and 5% Malbec. Sustainable agriculture Certified Hve3.

£14.95 at Vin Cognito

Château Croix Beauséjour – Le Vin des Frangins, 2020, Montagne Saint Emilion

From the Saint-Emilion appellation, the 2020 vintage is known for its rich and generous aromas with notes of dark fruit, chocolate and tobacco, with low key tannins and rich acidity. It is a blend of 85% Merlot and 15% Cabernet Franc. Rémi and Clémence represent the fifth generation to live and work on thirteen hectares of vineyard with exceptional views. Currently converting to organic agriculture, their commitment to progress, the quality of their terroir and their knowledge, creates authentic, high-quality wines with eye-catching labels that differ drastically from traditional Bordeaux reds.

£15.95 at KWM Wine

Château de La Dauphine, 2019, Fronsac

Built between 1744 and 1750 by Jean-Baptiste de Richon and bought by the Labrune family in 2015, Château de La Dauphine covers over 50 hectares of diverse terroirs and soils. Committed to protecting the environment and preserving biodiversity, Château de la Dauphine works its land using biodynamic methods and holds an organic farming certification. A blend of 85% Merlot and 15% Cabernet Franc, this wine has aromas of juicy blackberries and sweet plums, mingled with notes of cocoa and crushed spices. On the palate, it offers a full-bodied attack with freshness of crunchy black fruits exploding in the mid-palate, and a long, chewy finish of rare elegance. Certified organic and biodynamic vineyard.

£18.25 at Corney & Barrow

Château Daviaud (Maison Sichel), 2019, Bordeaux

Run by the Sichel family, Château Daviaud’s vineyards are planted on slopes, facing south-south-west, on the right bank of the Garonne River, which receives a great amount of sunshine on slopes comprised of limestone and gravel soils. A blend of 45% Merlot, 21% Cabernet Franc, 18% Cabernet Sauvignon and 15% Malbec, has a deep purple colour, rich notes of blackberry and cocoa and a plump palate with ripe soft tannins.

£11.50 at Cambridge Wine Merchants

Château Caileteau Bergeron Prestige, 2019, Blaye Côtes de Bordeaux

Château Cailleteau Bergeron has been a family vineyard since 1933, located in the Blaye Côtes de Bordeaux appellation of origin area. For nearly 100 years, generation after generation of the Dartier family has been producing red, white and rosé wines of quality and pleasure. A full-bodied, unoaked red with a long finish from Haut-Médoc. A blend of 77% Merlot, 10% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Malbec and 3% Carmenère, aged in stainless steel and concrete vats. Terra Vitis certified.

£19.65 at Friarwood

Château Les Annereaux, 2020, Bordeaux

A family estate owned by Dominique and Marie-Helene Hessel, the vineyard is known for producing high-quality red wines and is famed for its sustainable agroforestry practices. This organic wine presents itself under a beautiful brilliant ruby colour The attack is fruity and greedy, everything is gathered to provide an accessible discovery but with chewing, effective and crunchy material. The mid-palate is full of fruit and roundness thanks to the 95% Merlot completed with a nice finish brought by the 2% Petit Verdot. Certified Organic.

£15.60 at Smith and Evans

Premius Bordeaux Rouge, 2018, Bordeaux

Yvon Mau has acquired unique expertise in making Bordeaux wines since
the company’s inception of 1897. Premius benefits from all the lavish attention of the in-house winemakers, which is why it has won over 10 years by some 50 medals in the main competitions in France and around the world. Lightly oaked, the wine is a blend of 45% Merlot, 30% Cabernet Sauvignon and 25% Cabernet Franc. Raspberry in colour, the maturity of the grapes is emphasised by a lovely balance and a fresh touch of red fruits. Smooth enough to drink on its own, but great with red meat or cheese.

£9.95 at Slurp