Peter Morrell is impressed with the quality and diversity of these wines being produced in very challenging circumstances

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Ukraine boasts a centuries-old tradition of winemaking that remains a hidden gem for many enthusiasts. While the country may not be as internationally renowned as some of its European counterparts, Ukrainian wines have been gaining recognition for their unique flavours, diverse varietals, and the dedication of its winemakers.

Ukraine’s expansive territory, stretching from the Carpathian Mountains in the west to the Black Sea coast in the south, provides a diverse range of climates and soils, ideal for cultivating a wide array of grape varieties. This geographical diversity enables Ukrainian winemakers to experiment with different styles and produce wines with distinct character.

Ukraine boasts a wealth of indigenous grape varieties, some of which are exclusive to the region. Examples include:

• Chersegi Fuszeres: A white grape variety created as a hybrid between Irsai Olivér and Roter Traminer. Ideal for sparkling and fresh white wines.
• Irsai Oliver: A white grape hybrid offering aromatic tropical notes, ideal for summer drinking.
• Saperavi: A red grape that thrives in the Ukrainian climate, producing robust, full-bodied red wines with dark fruit flavours.
• Odessa Black or Alibernet: A dark skinned grape derived from Cabernet Sauvignon and Alicante Bouschet grapes. The wines produced are very fruit driven.

In addition to native grapes, Ukrainian winemakers have also embraced international varietals, such as Chardonnay, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Merlot. These grapes have adapted well to the Ukrainian terroir, offering a fresh perspective on classic styles.

I recently attended the first UK tasting of Ukrainian wines, twelve wineries from six Ukraine wine regions were exhibiting approximately 60 wines covering different styles including sparkling wines, unfiltered orange wines, ice wines and sweet wines – as well as still reds, whites and rosés.

This is a sample of the wines I tasted

Sparkling
Villa Tinta’s Tintarella Brut, a Chardonnay/Riesling blend. This was very fruity with a fresh and bright character.

Chateau Chizay’s Carpathian Sekt Chersegi Extra Dry 2022 made with the Chersegi Fuszeres grape was excellent. Lovely stone fruit and floral flavours with a refreshing dryness

White
Villa Tinta’s Irsai Oliver, a highly aromatic white, created by a Pinot Grigio/Muscat cross.

Biologist Craft Winery’s Sukholimansky 2021. This is made with the Sukholimansky grape, a cross between Chardonnay and Plavai. The wine has strong notes of citrus and white flowers.

Stakovsky Wine’s Chardonnay 2022 is fresh and fruity, everything you would expect from this grape.

Red
Villa Tinta’s Odessa Black 2020 was unoaked, so gives the red fruit flavours the opportunity to shine through.

Shabo’s Grand Reserva 2019 was a Caberney Franc/Merlot/Saperavi blend. It offers powerful fruit flavours combined with profound earthy tastes.

Bolgrad’s Saperavi Select 2022 with a small amount of Cabernet Sauvignon. A bold character with earthy notes from a young wine.

Biologist Craft Winery’s Odessa Black 2021 is full bodied, very dry, with very good fruit on the nose and palate.

Stakovsky Wine’s Cabernet Sauvignon 2019 is medium bodied with a very oaky personality.

In all an impressive array of wines that can hold their own against products from other wine growing regions of the world.

Some of these wines are already available in the UK, with more arriving soon. For more information visit https://ukr.wine/

The full list of exhibiting wine producers

• Beykush Winery, Mykolaiv
• Stakhovsky Wines, Zakarpattya
• Chateau Chizay, Zakarpattya
• Biologist Craft Winery, Kyiv
• Vynkhol Oksamytne /TM Villa Tinta, Odesa (Bessarabia subregion)
• Kolonist Wine, Odesa (Bessarabia subregion)
• Frumushika Nova, Odesa (Bessarabia subregion)
• Shabo, Odesa
• Tiras Winery /TM My Wine by Eduard Gorodetsky, Odesa
• Graevo, Zaporizhzhia
• Father’s Wine VB, Ternopil
• Bolgrad, Odesa