An evening with Theo Randall and Piacere Modena, who promote and protect the many world-class PDO and PGI culinary products from Modena. Peter Morrell reports
Nestled in the heart of the Emilia-Romagna region in northern Italy, Modena is a city that seamlessly blends rich history, exquisite cuisine, and modern vibrancy. Known for its well-preserved medieval architecture, world-class PDO and PGI products, and as the birthplace of the legendary tenor Luciano Pavarotti, and Enzo Ferrari, Modena is a captivating destination that offers a glimpse into the diverse tapestry of Italian culture.
Modena’s history dates back to ancient times, with evidence of Etruscan settlements in the area. The city flourished during the Roman era, and remnants of this period, such as the impressive Modena Cathedral and the Ghirlandina Tower, stand as proud witnesses to the city’s historical significance. The Modena Cathedral, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, is a masterpiece of Romanesque architecture, adorned with intricate sculptures and reliefs.
I recently enjoyed a meal at the Theo Randall at the InterContinental Hotel restaurant where the food and wine of Modena was showcased. The location was inspired, although Theo is English he doesn’t just cook Italian food, he positively lives it, and has spent time in Emilia-Romagna collaborating on gastronomic tours.
The evening started with a Pignoletto Modena PDO ‘Vini Del Re’ Cantina Settacani sparkling wine. If you like Prosecco, you will love Pignoletto, with its fruit and floral flavours. This was complemented by very flavourful tomato bruschetta, tempura zucchini, and morsels of 24 month aged Parmigiano Reggiano PDO.
The Antipasto was Prosciutto di Modena PDO with Parmigiano Reggiano PDO 24 months, rocket, and Balsamic vinegar Tradizionale di Modena PDO. The depth and intensity of the flavours can only be achieved with a combination of time and patience, this is real slow food. The side with this was gnocco fritto, a pillowy, light piece of dough deep fried in lard. For the wine we continued with the Pignoletto Modena PDO ‘Vini Del Re’ Cantina Settacani as the wine match for this course.
The Primo was another Modena specialty, Tortellini in brodo – fresh pasta filled with Prosciutto di Modena PDO and Parmigiano Reggiano PDO 24 months served in chicken broth. This was light and delicate with the pasta wrapping contrasting well with the savoury umami flavours of the ham and cheese stuffing. The wine match for this course was the Lambrusco di Sorbara ‘Vechhia Modena Premium’ Cleto Chiarli, a sparkling, chilled, light red, and very fruity.
The Secondo was Bollito misto – poached Capon, beef brisket, tongue and Cotechino Modena PGI with carrots, celery, Aceto Balsamico di Modena PGI, mostarda di frutta and salsa verde. This is a classic dish from northern Italy, the meat is carefully simmered for several hours to make it meltingly tender without losing its flavour. Cotechino Modena PGI is a pork sausage made in a traditional casing and has similarities with Zampone di Modena in which the casing is the skin of a pig’s foot. The wine companion for this course was the Lambrusco Grasparossa di Castelvetro PDO ‘Vini del Re’ Cantina Settecani, another uplifting and refreshing red.
The Dolce was Pannacotta di vaniglia – vanilla pannacotta with Confettura di Amarene Brusche di Modena PGI with hazelnut croquante. The Confettura is a jam made with sour cherries, and is a great foil to the sweetness of the Pannacotta. For this final course we continued drinking the Lambrusco Grasparossa di Castelvetro and added the Pignoletto Modena PDO spumante ‘Moden’ Cleto Chiarli
This was an incredible meal and proof that Modena is one of the best cities in the culinary world.
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