Rupert Parker gets up close to the stunning scenery that inspired the movie Avatar
If you’ve never been to China, then of course your itinerary must include Beijing and the Great Wall, Sian and the Terracotta Warriors, Shanghai and its Bund and perhaps a cruise on the Yangtze River. Of course these are the country’s greatest hits but, up there with the best of them, are the natural wonders of Zhangjiajie in Hunan. Movie director James Cameron was so impressed that he used the landscape in Avatar.
Hunan is a land-locked province, in the south central part of the country, surrounded by mountains, with the fertile Yangtze River to the north. Think agricultural China, a landscape of paddy fields and tea terraces. Of course that’s all changing but Zhangjiajie’s marvels are protected with UNESCO world heritage status.
I start in the capital, Changsha, a bustling city of over 10 million, bisected by the Xiang River. Chairman Mao was born in the countryside 70km away and arrived here in 1911 when he was 18, to attend college. On Orange Island, in the middle of the river, there’s a huge bust of a young Mao. Apparently he used to go swimming here after a hard day’s study under the orange trees.
He wasn’t quite good enough to earn a place at the Yuelu Academy, founded in 976, and one of the oldest universities in China. It’s situated in a leafy park, above the city, a pleasant stroll uphill and students make wishes under the statue of Confucius, begging to pass their exams. There’s an interesting collection of original buildings and a museum of education.
The Hunan Provincial Museum in Changsha is a treasure trove of historical artefacts and cultural relics. Among its most prized exhibits is the 2000 year old mummy of Lady Dai (Xin Zhui), an aristocrat from the Han Dynasty. Discovered in the early 1970s in a tomb at nearby Mawangdui. Xin Zhui’s body was found inside a series of four wooden coffins buried deep under layers of charcoal and white clay
The corpse was wrapped in twenty layers of clothing bound with silk ribbons and is the best preserved ancient human ever found. Despite being over 2000 years old, her skin remains elastic, with veins visible underneath, and there’s still hair on her head. The tomb was filled with over 1,000 precious artefacts, including silk garments, lacquerware, musical instruments, and food items, all of which are on display at the museum.
The night cruise along the Xiang River starts at dusk in the heart of the city, and cruises around Orange Island, taking around two hours. What’s stunning is the outdoor lightshow which transforms the skyline into a canvas of light and colour. Perfectly synchronised and coordinated LED’s, on the facades of the many high rises, create intricate animated light patterns.
As the boat cruises past Orange Island, the lush greenery contrasts with the bright lights of the city. Dominating all, is the towering sphinx-like statue of the young Mao peering out over the river. In the distance, on the west bank of the river, the silhouette of Yuelu Mountain and the ancient Lushan Temple can be seen.
It’s a fast two hour bullet train ride to the city of Zhangjiajie at speeds of over 200km/h. It’s a good base for visiting the surrounding countryside and has many restaurants and unique shows like ‘Charming Xiangxi’. Don’t miss local delicacies like Stinky Bean curd and do try Salamander, now farmed as the wild version is endangered.
The world’s longest cable car, a 7.5km aerial journey from the city to Tianmen Mountain, is an adventure in itself. As you ascend, you’re treated to panoramic views of the surrounding karst landscape and the road beneath, climbing up through 99 hairpin bends. In the side of the mountain is Tianmen Cave, or Heaven’s Gate, a circular void, wide enough for a fighter jet to fly through. Measuring 131.5m tall and 57m wide, it’s the world’s highest natural arch.
From the cable car, the Glass Skywalk, a 60m long glass platform, clings to the side of the cliffs. Walking on the transparent glass feels like stepping into the void, a test of courage as you stare down to the valley floor 1400m below. A series of escalators, cut inside the mountain, brings you to the foot of the arch, perfect for photos. From here 999 steep steps lead downwards to another viewing platform. A final cable car brings you back to the city.
The Zhangjiajie National Forest Park is known for its towering sandstone pillars carpeted in lush forest. You start by taking the glass sided Bailong Elevator, the world’s tallest outdoor lift, rising up 326m, with a stunning view of the pinnacles. Throughout the park there are more than 3,000 of these narrow limestone pillars, many over 200m high.
The most famous of these peaks is the Avatar Hallelujah Mountain, renamed after the success of James Cameron’s movie ‘Avatar’. The film’s computer generated backgrounds for Planet Pandora were inspired by the landscape here. Chinese tourists hire colourful costumes of the indigenous Tujia people to have their pictures taken. Concrete paths lead to various viewpoints and shuttle buses ferry you further afield.
Nearby, at the foot of the mountains, Boafeng Lake, often referred to as the “Jade Pool of Heaven,” is a man-made marvel created by a dam project. Its crystal clear waters reflect the surrounding karst peaks rising dramatically from the lake’s edge, covered in greenery and frequently topped by mist
Boat trips take you past local boatmen, dressed in indigenous attire, serenading you with traditional folk songs. The lake is teeming with fish, and if you’re lucky, you might even spot a giant salamander, a species native to this region. Keep an eye out for the native macaques and colourful birds that inhabit the area.
Recently Zhangjiajie has also become a hotspot for adventure seekers centred around the Glass Bridge, the world’s longest and highest, spanning 430m between the cliffs of the Grand Canyon. Dare to look down and, 300m beneath your feet, is the lush river valley. Looking up, the views are spectacular, with limestone peaks stretching into the far distance.
When you’ve crossed the bridge, you have the option of returning to the other side by zip line. It’s not for the faint hearted – after being fitted with a safety harness, the initial rush of speed is exhilarating. But you’re soon gliding gently through the air with the wind in your face and the canyon below. On the other side there’s more fun – a winding transparent tube slide gets you down the mountain, literally by the seat of your pants.
As I take the bullet train back to Changsha, it’s easy to see the great leap forward that the country has made. Identikit tower blocks cram new town centres, giant roads on stilts straddle the paddy fields and everything is sparklingly pristine. It’s a far cry from my first trip in 1975 when it was all bicycles and blue serge jackets. Yet Chairman Mao is still venerated here although I can’t help wondering what he would make of it all.
Factbox
Hainan Airlines flies direct to Changsha from Heathrow.
Changsha and Zhangjiajie are included in Wendy Wu’s tours Gems of China and National Treasures of China starting from £3990.
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