Rupert Parker finds Indian street food in West London and gets a sweet surprise.
In a parade of shops, just opposite leafy Gunnersbury Park, Tokri is a short walk from Acton Town station. It’s the brainchild of Ram Kishor, originally from Delhi, who brings his 15 years’ experience of food hospitality to the kitchen here.
This is a pleasant space, deep and narrow, with banquette seating along the walls. There’s a bar at the far end, in front of the kitchen, and service is brisk and unassuming. Tokri means basket in Hindi so we guess that it’s no accident that the shades on the hanging lamps are upturned straw baskets.
The menu is pleasantly short, with starters inspired by North Indian street food. We start with cocktails – I have a Rum Negroni while my partner goes for the non-alcoholic Tokri Garden. Fresh chunks of orange, lemon, cucumber, mint are mixed with apple cider, lemonade & sparkling water and topped with an umbrella. It’s a definite exotic hit.
Now to those street food starters. First up are a couple of Veg Samosas, crisp pastries stuffed with potato and peas, not too spicy. What gives them a kick, however, is the green chutney of mint, tamarind and, of course, chilli. Freshly made, this sets the chutney standard for our meal.
Chicken Lollipops, deep fried chicken wings coated with spicy yoghurt come with a tomato garlic chutney. Fish Koliwada, goujons of fish in a tangy batter, have their own sweet chilli and garlic chutney. Both are crisp and crunchy, tender inside, ready for the heat from the dips.
The final starter is a single Lamb Chop, tricky to share, but we manage. It’s been marinated in Greek yoghurt, flavoured with chilli and garam masala before being cooked in the tandoor. Not for those who like their lamb rare, the meat tumbles off the bone. The pairing of chopped raw mooli and red radish, in a mustard dressing, makes a good texture contrast.
So to the mains, and my partner goes for the Butter Chicken, an Indian restaurant standard, chicken tikka pieces in a cashew nut and tomato curry. It definitely hits the mark, creamy and just a touch of heat and there’s certainly a lot of it.
I go for Prawn Curry, large tiger prawns in a fresh coconut sauce, flavoured with fennel seeds and curry leaves. The dish proudly displays its South Indian heritage without the spices overwhelming the delicate taste of the shellfish.
On the menu, vegetables are in short supply, really a choice of aubergine, potatoes or spinach. We opt for the last, Nadru Palak, finely chopped spinach leaves with onion and garlic. The secret ingredient is diced Lotus Root, crunchy flashes of flavour hidden among the green. And of course, simple steamed rice mops up the curries.
So to desserts, and here the menu doesn’t skimp with a choice of seven. Mint Crème Brulee, topped with pieces of cardamom short bread is an Indian tinged version of the classic and is very good.
Even better, and unique to Tokri, are Chocolate Samosas. Two sit side by side bookmarked with single raspberries and drizzled with chocolate. The first crispy bite reveals a stuffing of chocolate custard, a playful twist on the Indian snack we know and love.
Tokri works well as a new and updated take on the neighbourhood Indian restaurant. Don’t go there expecting the usual huge menu – multitudes of standard curries coating a wide range of meats with standard off-the-shelf chutneys.
What you get here is inventive cooking, narrowing your choice but with the freshest of chutneys to expand the flavours. Prices are reasonable so there’s every reason to journey to this leafy heart of Acton. You won’t be disappointed.
Tokri
7, Park Parade,
Gunnersbury Avenue,
London W39BD
(+44) 20 8992 2436
AboutMyGeneration 