Peter Morrell tastes some of the outstanding red wines made in the Loire from the Cabernet Franc grape
As UK summer is feeling a little more like autumn this year, you might be on the lookout for a versatile wine that can complement both seasons.
Enter one of the Loire’s most popular grape varieties: Cabernet Franc. Known for its distinctive character and exceptional adaptability, this wine is perfect for chilling on rare warm, sunny days and equally impressive when savoured during the cooler months.
The Loire is renowned for its picturesque landscapes, historic châteaux, and diverse wine production. Among its celebrated offerings, Cabernet Franc stands out, from appellations such as Chinon, Bourgueil, and Saumur-Champigny, to name a few. The region’s unique terroir, with its limestone-rich soil and temperate climate, imparts a characteristic freshness, vibrant acidity, and a subtle minerality, providing wines with notes of red berries, herbs, making them a delightful choice for a wide range of palates.
On those rare warm, sunny days, when traditional heavy reds can seem overwhelming, a chilled Cabernet Franc from the Loire provides a refreshing alternative. Served slightly chilled, between 12-14°C, it reveals a lighter, fruit-forward profile that is both invigorating and satisfying. The lower tannin levels make it an ideal companion for al fresco dining. Pair it with summer favourites such as grilled vegetables, or a fresh Caprese salad to experience a delicious blend of flavours.
As summer fades and autumn’s creeps in, Loire Cabernet Franc seamlessly transitions to the dinner table with its more complex, earthy undertones becoming prominent. The wine’s natural spiced notes complement heartier meals, making it perfect for the season’s robust dishes. Consider pairing it with a mushroom risotto or a classic beef stew. Its versatility extends to lighter autumn meals as well, for example a butternut squash salad or a hearty lentil soup, showcasing the wine’s versatility.
Peter Morrell Editor comments “I’ve recently tasted two wines from the Loire made with Cabernet Franc, and they were both very impressive. The first was Les Terrasses from the Cave de la Tourangelle in the Saint Nicolas de Bourgueil appellation. It’s available from Tesco for £11.
“In an earlier life my IT business took me around the world, and from each trip I returned with a fond culinary memory. I worked in Tours and was introduced by my oenophile French host to St Nicolas de Bourgueil wine, it had a uniqueness that I will always remember. This wine is not widely available in the UK, so it’s pleasing to see it stocked at Tesco.
“Les Terrasses St Nicolas de Bourgueil wine is made with the Cabernet Franc grape, which thrives in the soil of the area it’s grown, about an hour’s drive to the West of Tours. The wine pours a dark garnet colour. There are a lot of fruit aromas in the bouquet including cherries, raspberries, blackcurrants, and dried fruit all laced through with hints of floral violets.
“The wines sits between medium and full bodied. As it moves to the palate these fruit flavours remain, and are joined by an earthiness which makes this wine so unique, and gives it depth. The tannins are muted but the wine is pleasantly dry, which, combined with a touch of acidity, makes it ideal to drink with food.
“The finish is fruity and persistent, with a suggestion of smokiness. This wine, which rekindled a very fond memory, pairs well with roast lamb and barbequed meats.
“The second wine was the Les Nivieres 2023 from Cave de Saumur in the Saumur appellation, close to Nicolas de Bourgueil. The ‘terroir’ around Saumur is a combination of limestone, sand and siliceous clay, making it ideal for growing the Cabernet Franc grape. The wine is available from Waitrose for £10.99.
“Again, the wine pours a dark red, and the nose has strong black cherry and raspberry aromas. This is a young wine, so has a fresh fruity character with a lively acidity and well-balanced tannins
“On the palate the cherries and raspberries persist and are joined by more complex flavours of spice, pepper, and that characteristic Cabernet Franc earthiness.
“The finish is bright, fruity fresh, and persistent. The wine’s youth make it suitable to be lightly chilled and it makes a good match for a chicken salad or selection of cheese and charcuterie.”
See some further suggestions below:
- Bourgueil, Domaine Talau-Foltzenlogel, Passion, 2022, £15.75, Yapp Brothers
- Saumur-Champigny, Croix de Chaintres, £13.99, Waitrose
- Saumur-Champigny, Domaine Filliatreau, 2021, £17.95, Yapp Brothers
About InterLoire, Loire Wines
In the third-ranked wine region in France for protected designation of origin wines, the Loire wines council brings together 3,000 producers, including winegrowers, wine merchants and cooperative cellars, representing 75% of the wine volumes in the region. The Loire wines council represents 34 appellations and denominations from the Nantes, Anjou-Saumur and Touraine regions, as well as the PGI Val de Loire, which spans 42,000 hectares and 14 departments from Vendée to Puy-de-Dôme.
AboutMyGeneration 