Rupert Parker gets a tutored taste of British cheeses with imaginative wine pairings

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The Park Corner Brasserie is launching a series of exclusive events focused on the art of cheese and wine pairing. The first features a combination of five British cheeses from supplier Harvey and Brockless with wines hand-picked from the cellar by Wine Director Rudina Arapi. It’s held in a separate self-contained section of the Brasserie, with no distractions so we can concentrate on the tastings.

Now, before I arrived, I presumed that the cheeses would be served in their natural state without any frills. Instead I see that the chefs are also preparing their own delicacies created with the selected cheeses. Taking us through the wines is Helen McGinn, drinks expert and author.

We start with Highmoore, a mild cow’s milk cheese, from Rose Grimond in Berkshire. Served along with the cheese are a quartet of red spheres, actually berry gels with cheese inside. Wine is a 2022 Chateau La Gardonne Rosé from Côtes de Provence, France. What’s interesting is that although we normally associate red wine with cheese, this slightly sparkling rosé makes a good match.

Next up is Tunworth, medium intensity again made from cow’s milk, from Stacey Hedges in Hampshire. It’s a British style Camembert and chefs have chosen a truffle powder to go with the cheese. This time it’s paired with a white wine, a Gerard Bertrand Chardonnay 2023 from Languedoc-Roussillon. It’s been slightly oaked which helps it stand up to the intensity of the cheese.

Then a complete change – no cheese chunks but instead a fondue made from Lincolnshire Poacher and white wine. It’s set on the table to bubble away and we dip cubes of bread to scoop up the molten liquid. Lincolnshire Poacher is a strong hard cheese yet it works surprisingly well in this setting. Of course red wine is obligatory here and the 2021 Prima Natura Merlot from Languedoc-Roussillon does the job.

After all the cows, it’s time for the goats and Ashlynn, wrapped in vegetable ash, from George Bramham in Evesham is next. The chefs have really gone to town so as well as chunks, they’ve created a dish with the cheese stuffed inside various fruity gels. Pride of place is what looks like a giant red toadstool and all is served on a bed of crunch. A classic 2022 Cloudy Bay Sauvignon Blanc from Marlborough, New Zealand, is a good complement.

Finally it’s time for Stilton, that jewel of British Cheeses, this one from Billy Kevan’s team in Colston Basset. It’s served with what is perhaps my favourite dish of the evening – a miniature soufflé with velvety mushroom puree. There’s still some chunks of stilton on the side and the wine choice comes as a surprise. It’s a 2029 Petit Guiraud Sauternes from Chateaux Guiraud, a dessert wine which balances the sharpness of the cheese.

The event has been something of an eye-opener, pairing cheeses with wines that you might not think would work. Of course my view is that strong cheese needs full bodied reds, but I would never have imagined serving dessert wine with Stilton. Likewise rosé with mild cheese like Highmoore. Throughout the year, Park Corner Brasserie will continue hosting Tasting Social events with different themes and seasonal menus, each designed to showcase unique food and wine pairings

Fact Box

The next Tasting Social events take place on 5th March and 3rd April

Tickets are £65 per person with a discretionary service charge of 13% applied to all bills.

Park Corner Brasserie,
London Hilton Park Lane,
22 Park Lane,
London W1K 1BE