Davos has a reputation for the annual ‘Men in Suits‘ meeting but as Petra Shepherd discovers it’s a mecca for winter sports and breathtaking scenery
Davos will forever be associated with the World Economic Forum and bankers in suits with neighbouring Klosters firmly on the radar as the Royal’s favourite ski resort. However, with a total of six ski regions and just under 300 kilometres of slopes, the Swiss resorts in the heart of the Graubunden have so much more to offer, with ski enthusiasts truly spoilt for choice. The Madrisa and Rinerhorn are the family-friendly ski options, perfect for beginners and intermediates with gentle slopes and a welcoming atmosphere. Parsenn, the heart of the ski area, offers a variety of runs including the longest in the area and connections to Klosters. Jakobshorn a freestyle mountain with a snowpark is ideal for younger crowds and those seeking an active après ski scene whilst Schatzalp is a chilled ski region for leisure skiers. Finally, Pischa is known for its off-piste, offering natural, ungroomed terrain for adventure-seeking skiers. The full ski area is available on one pass including the scenic mountain train and if it’s impressive scenery you’re after then the mountains here have it in spades. The snow-covered “horns” Schwarzhorn, Bocktenhorn, Weisshorn, Scalettahorn and Tinzenhorn – known as the “Matterhorn” of Davos offer a pretty dramatic backdrop for a day out on the slopes.
I visited the resort in mid-March, with still favourable snow conditions but in typical Spring season fashion, the days take on a different pattern. Up early to ski hard and enjoy the best of the snow and then a late, long, lazy lunch, preferably al fresco in the sun at one of the many mountain restaurants. Fuxägufer can be found on the sunny side of the Jakobshorn and has one of the sunniest terraces in the alps along with a mean fondu. The daily freshly prepared “Spätzli” and the tender meat dishes are especially recommended, try tongue twister Putzis Fuxa Swiss Spaetzli, served in a pan with mountain cheese and fried onions. The Fuxägufer can also be reached by pedestrians taking the carjol chairlift from the valley.
At 1,560m, Davos is the highest and one of the largest towns in the Alps. Comprised of two areas: Davos Dorf and Davos Platz. Dorf acts as the prime base for accessing the slopes, whilst Platz is convenient for the majority of shops and hotels. After a day on the slopes, I took a horse and carriage ride to unwind and indulge in the serene beauty of the landscape at a slower, more leisurely pace. As the sun set over the snow-capped peaks, the sound of hooves softly crunching through the snow filled the quiet, peaceful valley. I was wrapped in a warm blanket and the gentle jingle of the reins and steady pace of the horses provided a calming contrast to the adrenaline of a day’s skiing. A delicious dinner awaited at Schraemli’s Lengmatta restaurant. Grisons classics and Swiss specialities are served in the newly renovated and enlarged restaurant, a 45-minute horse and carriage ride from Davos.
Today, Davos, together with neighbouring Klosters, is a large, modern and successful holiday destination. The foundations for this success were laid over 150 years ago, when the first winter guests arrived in the Landwasser Valley on February 8, 1865. Davos was a pioneer in the development of modern winter sports and is responsible for numerous firsts. The world-famous Davos sledge got its name from the first, historic sledge race held in Davos in 1883. In 1921, the Hockey Club Davos was founded with The Spengler Cup, which was first held in 1923, being the oldest and most prestigious international ice hockey tournament in the world. The Parsenn Derby is the most traditional ski race in Switzerland and was held for the first time in 1924. Ten years later, the first ever T-bar ski lift was put into operation on the Bolgen and in modern times, Davos made headlines when it founded the freestyle scene in the 1980s. At that time, the Jakobshorn was the only mountain on which snowboarders were allowed to use the lifts. At the Winter Sports Museum in Davos visitors can view an impressive exhibition of sledges, bob sleighs, skis, skates and curling equipment from the beginning of winter sports right through to the present day along with a collection of interesting black and white photographs covering the history of skiing.
2025 marks the 150th anniversary of the birth of German author Thomas Mann. In honour of the Nobel Prize winner, Davos 2025 has been the stage for a unique cultural year. Numerous events, such as interactive tours, time travel with VR headsets, and readings from his books have honoured the life and works of the world-famous author. Thomas Mann first visited Davos in 1912, when his wife Katia was cured of tuberculosis in the Waldsanatorium (now the Berghotel Schatzalop). The hotel and with it the entire mountain were immortalized in Mann’s novel “The Magic Mountain” (1924). In 2024, the focus was on the 100th anniversary of this novel with the celebrations now turning to the life and work of the author himself. A visit to the Schatzalp (Magic Mountain) and Berghotel Schatzalp is an absolute must, easily reached by its own funicular railway. The hotel’s 116-year-old funicular swoops guests from Davos’s main promenade to the reception in four minutes. The hotel, built in the Art Nouveau style, was designed as a luxury sanatorium in 1900 and has been run as a hotel since 1953. With a south facing sun terrace and top notch views the hotel at 1865 metres gets a couple of extra hours of sunlight a day. Visiting is like stepping back in time, with an old-fashioned lift, x ray panels turned into lights, ancient radiators and art nouveau murals. To get back down, there’s an illuminated toboggan run with 18 adventurous curves. If visiting in the summer The Alpinum is a botanical garden with approximately 5000 different plant species from mountains from all over the world (Switzerland, The Pyrenees, New Zealand, China, Nepal and Tibet,). It’s the place to come and marvel at what nature is capable of doing at 1900 meters above sea level and a stay here is the ultimate in Alpine seclusion. Visitors come not only for the magic on the mountain but for a ski resort that combines extensive slopes, diverse terrain, and a lively atmosphere.
For more information about the resorts visit
https://www.davos.ch/en
https://www.klosters.ch/en
Getting there. Access is via Zurich Airport (SWISS) and train direct to either Davos Platz or Klosters; to book/plan your journey visit https://www.myswitzerland.com/en-gb/
Stay at https://www.morosani.ch/ located in the heart of Davos, close to the railway, shopping and facilities
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