Peter Morrell

San Sebastián Gastronomika Gourmet Congress, Spain

Rupert Parker gets a taste of the 27th San Sebastián Gastronomika Gourmet Congress

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What better place to hold a gourmet congress than in the Basque city of San Sebastián (Donostia), a destination itself renowned for its many high quality restaurants and bars. Held every October on the edge of the bay, the event brings together chefs, food-writers, producers and industry professionals.

What makes Gastronomika distinct from many other food congresses is its wide focus. It’s as much about small-scale cheesemakers, fishermen and café culture as it is about Michelin starred kitchens. Outside the conference theatre there are more than 200 stands, where companies, producers and food tech firms can present their products.

The congress has always balanced local pride with global reach, and 2025 is no exception. Headliners include Peruvian Nikkei maestro Mitsuharu “Micha” Tsumura of Maido, one of the world’s most influential restaurants, alongside luminaries such as Niklas Ekstedt, Viviana Varese and a roster of Basque greats.

This year’s the theme is “Tradition and Regeneration”. This dual focus first revisits culinary traditions – the ingredients, techniques and regional knowledge that form the backbone of Basque and global cuisine; then pushes beyond sustainability into the realm of regeneration – restoring ecosystems, cultures and food systems rather than just maintaining them.

Roots & Territory
On the opening day, chefs such as Alejandro Ibáñez (Barahonda, Yecla) emphasise memory, landscape and place as core to their cuisine. Nacho Manzano (Casa Marcial, Asturias) pays homage to his roots in the Asturian terrain, weaving family and land into his culinary narrative. And Eneko Atxa (Azurmendi, Basque Country) reflects on time and tradition, arguing that “the past is essential” as a foundation for meaningful cuisine.

Sea & Sustainability
The sea is a key player. Sessions explore how the Cantabrian-Atlantic marine culture is pushing the potential of algae and “super blue foods,” and emphasises the role of artisanal fishing. Chefs can go beyond buying local and actively support biodiversity, heritage and sea restoration.

A standout session titled “Kombu Umami” features Japanese chefs Hideki Matsuhisa (Koy Shunka, Barcelona), Yoshikazu Yanome (Kaido Sushi Bar, Valencia) and Takashi Okui (Tsuruga, Japan). They explore the two-year maturation of Kombu, the essence of umami and seaweed, not just as an exotic garnish, but as a major ingredient.

Innovation, Fermentation & Smoke
On the closing day, sessions like “Sweet Autumn Tour” with Jordi Roca (El Celler de Can Roca), and “The Spirit of Charcoal” with Katsuhito Inoue (Kyoto) place technique and elemental cooking at the heart of regeneration.

Another panel, “GOe: Fermentation as a Pathway to a Delicious Future”, anchored by John Regefalk, Jose Mari Aizega and Cipriano Carrero (Basque Culinary Centre) explores how fermentation works as a driver of flavour, preservation and sustainability.

Heston Blumenthal
The festival’s marquee Tribute Award goes to British chef Heston Blumenthal, a figure synonymous with molecular gastronomy and multisensory dining. The award acknowledges not just Blumenthal’s technical inventions but his impressive influence on the way chefs deal with experience, memory and the science of flavour.

He uses his platform to argue that chefs need to redesign their menus, to take into account the effect of weight loss drugs. Around four per cent of the UK adult population are now taking them, with a further 28 per showing interest in using them in the future. At his 3* restaurant, the Fat Duck, he plans to offer smaller portion sizes and fewer courses.

Outside the congress hall, San Sebastián itself is an essential partner in the experience. The city’s pintxo bars and restaurants serve as living laboratories where visitors can experience what’s happening is the real world. For many delegates, the most instructive moments are here, where chefs and producers taste, drink, argue and come up with new ideas.

San Sebastián Gastronomika 2025 leaves a clear impression that the future of gastronomy is less about exotic techniques and more about repair – regenerating soil and coastal stocks and supporting sustainable producers. During three days, many of the chefs offered tastings as part of their presentations – on that basis, it’s clear to see they’re certainly responding to the challenge.

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