Peter Morrell samples two wines made with his favourite grape, Cabernet Franc
As the UK settles into the crisp embrace of winter, it’s the perfect time to enjoy the warmth and elegance of Cabernet Franc from France’s renowned Loire Valley. Known for its freshness and versatility, Loire Cabernet Franc is an ideal companion for the season’s festive gatherings and cosy evenings by the fire. With Cabernet Franc Day on December 4th, there’s no better occasion to celebrate this exceptional grape.
Cabernet Franc, the signature grape of Loire reds, dominates the region’s vineyards, offering characteristic aromas of red fruits, spices, and violet. Its smooth and fresh structure makes it an ideal match for winter’s comforting dishes, providing a perfect balance of flavour and elegance.
The Loire Valley, with its diverse microclimates and soils, offers a wide range of authentic and accessible wines. While its sophisticated whites have long been celebrated, the region’s Cabernet Franc reds are equally noteworthy for their freshness and elegance.
Key Highlights:
- Saumur-Champigny: These silky, elegant reds, rooted in the region’s iconic tuffeau limestone, are perfect for pairing with hearty winter dishes like fondue or raclette.
- Chinon: Known as the capital of Cabernet Franc, Chinon produces a variety of wines, from light, youthful reds to more robust, cellar-worthy options, ideal for winter feasts.
- Saint Nicolas de Bourgueil: This appellation offers smooth, accessible reds, perfect for impromptu dinners during the festive season, thanks to its warmer, drier climate.
- Bourgueil: Featuring two styles—easy-drinking wines from gravel soils and powerful cuvées from tuffeau—Bourgueil adapts to all winter recipes.
- Anjou Rouge: Known for its vibrant fruit flavours and soft tannins, Anjou Rouge is a versatile choice that pairs well with a variety of winter dishes, from roasted meats to hearty stews.
- IGP Val de Loire: A creative hub for winemaking, this designation showcases 30 grape varieties, producing smooth and fresh reds perfect for cosy winter evenings.
Loire Cabernet Franc wines are synonymous with warmth, conviviality, and shared pleasure. Their accessibility and elegance make them perfect for all your winter moments. After a brisk winter walk, a warm red can gently warm you up. A smooth and elegant red pairs beautifully with a cheese fondue for a festive gathering, while a light and spicy red complements your holiday roast. Enjoy a smooth and fresh red by the fireplace with a charcuterie and cheese platter, making every winter moment special. Please see some wine suggestions below:
- Domaine de la Commanderie – Philippe Pain, Chinon Tradition, Chinon AOC, 2022, £20.95 from Vino Gusto
- Domaine Filliatreau, Saumur Champigny AOC, 2021, £9.95 (half bottle) from Yapp Brothers
- Jamet Antoine et Francois, Le Clos du Vigneau, Le Clos, Saint Nicolas de Bourgueil AOC, £19.50 from Champagnes & Chateaux
- Chateau d’Avrille, Anjou Rouge, Anjou AOC, 2023
- SCEA de la dime, Clos de l’Abbaye, Bourgueil AOC, 2022
Peter Morrell, Editor comments “In an earlier life as the owner of a software company, I spent some time working in Tours, overseeing the installation of a very large computer system. My hosts were very generous and delighted in taking me out to the world-class restaurants along the Loire River. They introduced me to Loire reds and more specifically Bourgueil wines, the single varietal made with the Cabernet Franc grape My dining companions summed it up as ‘le goût de la terre’, the taste of the earth.
“I’ve recently tasted the two of the Bourgueil wines from the list above. The first was the Clos de l’Abbaye, Bourgueil AOC, 2022. The wine poured a garnet colour and on the nose there were strong aromas of fresh red fruits including strawberries, raspberries and dark cherries. In the mouth the wine was medium bodied and had smoothy tannins, with well-balanced acidity. The palate shows the wine’s earthy character, combined with lighter floral notes and in addition hints of cedar and leather. The finish is long and fruity with elements of black pepper and other spices. The wine would match beautifully with roasted lamb shoulder.
“The second wine was the Le Clos du Vigneau, Le Clos, Saint Nicolas de Bourgueil AOC, 2023, the Saint Nicolas area is very favoured by fans of Bourgueil. This wine poured slightly darker and the bouquet was a luscious collection of fruit aromas with some hints of spice. The mouthfeel was slightly on the bold side of medium and the general impression is bright and fresh, with drying tannins and lively but muted acidity. On the palate there was some smoke and spice together with blackberry and cherry flavours. As the finish started there were coffee and vanilla notes with the trademark earthiness and persistent fruit. Drink this wine with steaks and other barbecued meats.”
About InterLoire, Loire Wines
In the third-ranked wine region in France for protected designation of origin wines, the Loire wines council brings together 3,000 producers, including winegrowers, wine merchants and cooperative cellars, representing 75% of the wine volumes in the region. The Loire wines council represents 34 appellations and denominations from the Nantes, Anjou-Saumur and Touraine regions, as well as the PGI Val de Loire, which spans 42,000 hectares and 14 departments from Vendée to Puy-de-Dôme.
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