Rupert Parker slips on his snow shoes in Valais Switzerland and has an appointment with witches.
I’ve reached the stage in life where I’ve finally hung up my skis but still enjoy winter in the mountains, Valais, high in the Swiss Alps, has two timeless mountain destinations – the authentic valley of Val d’Hérens and the elevated plateau village of Belalp. Both offer spectacular scenery, rich cultural traditions and outdoor adventures, yet each has its own unique character.
South of the Rhône Valley, above Sion, the Val d’Hérens stretches through a dramatic alpine landscape framed by some of the Alps’ highest peaks. This valley has been shaped over millennia by glaciers and, even today, retains a rugged, unspoiled charm. Forget glitzy après-ski, It’s a place where local traditions still thrive and centuries-old architectural styles endure.
The valley unfolds gradually, revealing a series of charming hamlets and villages – each with its own character. Classical Swiss chalets, slate roofs, and pasture-framed roads give way to dramatic landscapes and silence punctuated only by the rush of mountain streams and the distant chiming of cowbells.
Evolène
Evolène is far more than a picturesque Alpine village, it’s a rare example of a community where history has not been frozen, but quietly carried forward. In an age when many mountain villages have reinvented themselves for tourism, here the traditional architecture, language, customs, and rhythms of life are preserved.
After the Romans left, settlers from the Alemanni tribe arrived in the upper Valais (Wallis) in the 7th and 8th centuries. They became known as the Walser, speaking a Franco-Provençal dialect which is still in use today. They constructed wooden chalets, built from larch and set on stone foundations. Overhanging roofs, external staircases, and elevated granaries are typical.
The Museum of Evolène offers insight into this layered past and focusses on domestic life. Tools, furniture, clothing, and photographs document how Walser-influenced mountain communities lived – how they cooked, farmed, dressed, and survived long winters. Alongside Christian traditions, echoes of pre-Christian Alpine beliefs still lived on.
Perhaps the most striking example is the Carnaval des Empaillés. Participants wear straw-stuffed costumes and animal masks, to chase away winter spirits and ensure fertility for the coming year. The masks are hand carved, a deeply rooted folk tradition that blends craftsmanship, ritual, and cultural identity. They embody spirits of the mountains that need to be confronted and mocked before spring arrives.
Les Haudères
At the far end of the Val d’Hérens, where the valley narrows and the mountains rise sharply toward glaciers and sky, lies Les Haudères. At 1,450 m, it was a natural stopping point for herders, traders, and travellers moving deeper into the high Alps. Historically, the village developed as a subsidiary settlement of Evolène, serving as a practical base closer to alpine pastures and glaciers.
For outdoors enthusiasts like me this is a gateway to some of the most dramatic landscapes in Valais. Hiking routes range from gentle valley walks to demanding alpine ascents. Paths often follow historic routes used for centuries, connecting villages, pastures, and seasonal shelters. They lead towards Arolla’s glaciers, Ferpècle’s ice fields, and the high mountain passes.
Belalp
A further 100 km east, Belalp on a sunny plateau at 2,100 m, offers an entirely different alpine experience. This car free village, reachable only by cable car from Blatten bei Naters, is a ski and snow boarding centre with over 45 km of prepared. slopes. It’s also a starting point for numerous snowshoe trails, just the ticket for a retired skier like me.
One popular route leads toward Aletschbord, and it’s always better to go with a guide as the trail is a mix of groomed paths and virgin snow. There’s a moderate climb and some downhill in pristine snow before reaching the lookout. After around an hour, I’m rewarded with views of the immense Aletsch glacier stretching roughly 23 km down the valley and the longest in the Alps.
The Witches of Belalp
I’m also here when witches of all ages and shapes descend on the snow – not to cackle around cauldrons but to race down snowy mountainsides on skis. This unique event is the Belalp Hexe, Witches’ Week, commemorating local legends. The story goes that a witch once haunted the slopes, wreaking havoc in the nearby hamlet of Hegdorn.
On January 17, the festival reaches its peak with the Belalp Witches’ Downhill, a ski race blending competitive spirit with whimsical costume chaos. The 12 km course descends 1800 m to Blatten and is a serious test of skill and stamina with the shared thrill of careening down the mountain in pointy hats and wielding broomsticks.
A new addition for 2026 is the Belalp Hexe Vertical Race, an uphill endurance challenge. Athletes, hikers and ski tourers start in Blatten (1,300 m) and climb 1,000 m to Schönbiel. What makes it special is its inclusivity: participants can ascend on foot, ski touring gear, snowshoes, or even trail running shoes. You can also dress as witches.
Winter in Valais has lots to recommend it, not least that you don’t need to take your skis to enjoy what’s on offer. It’s great to immerse yourself in local traditions, enjoy Swiss specialities like cheesy Raclette and explore the slopes on snow shoes. Just don’t expect me to don a pointed black witch’s hat and fly around on a broomstick.
Factbox
SWISS connects Switzerland with the world, offering more than 160 weekly flights from London Heathrow, London City, Manchester, Birmingham and Edinburgh to Zurich or Geneva. One way fares start from £76 to Zurich and £54 to Geneva including all taxes, fees and surcharges, one piece of checked luggage up to 23kg and hand luggage.
Travel Switzerland’s Swiss Travel Pass offers international visitors to Switzerland unlimited travel on consecutive days across the rail, bus and boat network, plus scenic routes (seat reservation fees apply) and local trams and buses in around 90 towns and cities. It also includes the Swiss Museum Pass, which grants free entry to 500 museums and exhibitions. Prices start from £229 for a three-day second-class ticket.
Switzerland has information about the country.
Visit Valais has information about the region.
Hotel Les Mélèzes makes a friendly base in Les Haudères.
Anakolodge is a group of restored wooden chalets at the foot of the Dent Blanche.
Adaastra Boutique Hotel in Naters is convenient for Belalp and has a good restaurant.
Au Vieux Mazot in Evolène serves the best Raclette in the region.
Taverne Evolénarde in Evolène has local specialities.
Café Restaurant La Cordée serve comfort food in Les Haudères.
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