Peter Morrell finds that as well as stunning beaches and lush golf courses, the Algarve has a fascinating history that goes back a thousand years.
Shaped by invading Moors, buccaneering merchant adventurers and churches built in the reign of King Manuel I, the rich culture of the Algarve awaits discovery. Visible remnants of the past still exist and offer a fascinating insight into Portuguese history.
This is epitomised by the huge Moorish castle at Silves, once the capital of the Algarve. Situated, on the banks of the Arade River, that is navigable by small boat from the sea, this town has seen its fortunes change dramatically over the years but the castle steadfastly remains. The well-preserved fortification sits high on a hill and it’s still possible to see evidence of living areas and bathrooms. The castle was built around 1000 years ago and early in its life occupation alternated between the Moors and the Christians.
From the battlements there are extensive views of the narrow streets in the town below and the river valley beyond. Next to the castle is Silves Cathedral, built in the 14th century on the site of a mosque. It was repaired after the great earthquake of 1755 and has been renovated many times since. These two buildings are in a charming cobbled area with shaded cafe terraces in between
Another historic town is Lagos on the coast to the west of Silves where Henry the Navigator has been immortalised with a statue. It was from Lagos that his fleet Caravels, fast light ships he designed for speed and manoeuvrability, set sail for Africa and Arabia to open up trade routes. This marked the start of the Age of Discovery and the establishment of commerce and the growth of Portuguese influence.
Reminders of this expansion are still there in Lagos. For example in the square next to the Governor’s castle, that was once a Moorish fortress, a patio surrounded by arches was originally the slave market and dates back to 1444.
Trade also brought with it wealth and this is evidenced by the church of St Antony across the square. Its Baroque facade hides its most spectacular feature, the rich profusion of gilded carving covering the high altar and sidewalls.
The walls around the town were built between 1520 and the end of the 16th century to protect the new neighbourhoods springing up as a result of the rapid growth of international trade. They include a number of gateways and bulwarks adapted to allow the use of artillery in case of attack.
The walls afford panoramic views over the city, the bay and the mountains of the Serra de Monchique. A number of buildings of historic and architectural interest form part of this defensive structure around Lagos. A complete history of the town can be found in the Municipal Museum that is attached to the Church of Saint Anthony.
Up in the hinterland of the coast the Serre de Monchique has wooded valleys , cork forests and historic villages. A good starting point to appreciate the area is Foia, the highest point in the Algarve with unrivalled views to Cape St Vincent in the West and to Faro in the East.
From here you can go down to the village of Monchique where you will find cobbled, winding streets and traditional crafts still being practised. The church is well worth a visit before descending the long flight of steps to the village square with its Moorish water wheel sculpture. And, if you are brave, you can pop into a cafe for a glass of the local firewater, Medronho, a liqueur made from the fruit of the strawberry tree.
Coming back down the mountain a short detour off the main road takes you to Caldas de Monchique where the Romans built baths to take advantage of the spa water. This is a charming village with a tree-shaded square that’s home to an outdoor bread oven. In a building on one side of the square local crafts people sell a whole range of traditional handicrafts such as ceramics, tiles and leather goods
Out to the west of the Algarve is Sagres, home of Henry the Navigator’s famous school of navigation. Henry also built a fortress on the point just outside the town, the Fortaleza de Sagres. Inside this massive structure is a chapel and a huge sea navigator’s compass. From here, the lighthouse of Cape St Vincent, the most south westerly part of Europe is clearly visible across the bay. The cape also marks the boundary between the calm seas of the south coast and the much wilder waters of the west coast. The present lighthouse on the Cape was built over the ruins of a 16th century Franciscan convent in 1846.
After a hard day’s sightseeing every culture vulture needs a place to roost for the evening, and the perfect spot is the luxury boutique hotel Quinta Bonita. Conveniently situated just outside of Lagos it is equidistant between Monchique and Sagres. Its eight individually styled rooms are the ultimate in luxury and comfort. The friendly atmosphere, charming decor and beautiful gardens make it feel like you are a guest at a private family villa. This is no surprise, as owners, Chantelle and Fraser, a young couple from the UK, have lovingly renovated the property and warmly welcome you to what was the family holiday home.
So if you are looking for culture as part of your holiday in the sun, the Algarve could be your ideal destination.
Quinta Bonita – https://www.quintabonitaalgarve.com/
For more information on Portugal – www.visitportugal.com
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