Say hello to the playful little sister of KOKS restaurant, ROKS, a new exciting chef at Raest, and an increasingly wide selection of vegetarian eateries in the Faroe Islands

KOKS, the world’s most remote Michelin-starred restaurant is (temporarily) relocating from the Faroe Islands to Greenland (throughout 2023) whilst a new permanent site on the Faroe Islands is found – but fear not, there’s still plenty to draw adventurous foodies to the Faroes this year.

The Nordic archipelago – a collection of 18 islands in the North Atlantic, midway between Iceland and Norway, and north of Scotland – is known for its unique and adventurous cuisine, which champions various long-established methods of food preservation such as fermentation.

KOKS’ planned reopening in 2024, has led the makeover of its sister restaurant, Raest, together with the opening of little sister restaurant, ROKS.

There’s much to be excited about, so here’s a taster of Faroese foodie happenings for visitors in 2023:

Welcome to ROKS

The little sister restaurant to KOKS, called ROKS, is a playful and laid-back offering specialising in Faroese seafood and interesting wine to suit all tastes. Fresh seafood and fish is delivered daily, enabling ROKS to serve the best-quality Faroese seafood – including sea urchins, mussels, crab and langoustines – combined with both modern and classical cooking techniques. The word ‘Roks’ in Faroese means not taking things too seriously, and the restaurant will deliver this fresh, fun vibe via its friendly service and by literally playing around with food and flavours. Guests can expect a hands-on experience, with a full menu, downstairs at ROKS (think Sea Urchin Omelette, Langoustine with Bloody Mary Sauce and Blue Mussel with Lemon and Pepper Sauce) and/or they can visit the grass-roofed wine loft for tasty snacks and a wide selection of conventional and organic wine by the glass. Head Chef Mantas Vaidelis looks forward to welcoming many guests, visitors and locals alike.

Exciting new chef at fine-dining Raest – reopens on 4 April 2023

Raest, in the Faroese capital, Tórshavn, was the world’s first restaurant specialising in fermented food when it opened back in 2016. The one-of-a-kind establishment (raest means fermented in Faroese) serves solely traditional fermented dishes showcasing Faroese traditions coupled with modern and multicultural gastronomy, such as lamb, fish (both wind-dried) and vegetables, prepared by the ancient outdoor dry-aging process. Raest, like KOKS, is owned by the Nordic entrepreneur Johannes Jensen, and has the same talented team of chefs behind it. Raest reopens on 4 April 2023, and along with great ambitions, they are marrying the best international fermented ingredients with Faroese style of cooking from exciting new Head Chef, Sebastian Jiménez, at the helm. Sebastian and his team are focusing on enhancing the craft of fermentation with his Mexican roots. Born and raised in Atlixco, México, and part of the KOKS team since 2019, Sebastian has now decided to put his diverse experiences into Ræst, and together with Head Sommelier Karin Visth they have refined the art of combining international food culture and ancient food traditions of the Faroe Islands from acknowledged and sustainable producers around the world. Menus featuring delicious dishes with a Mexican twist include Aged Mackerel, XO Sauce, and Sencha; Langoustine, Kimchi and Harissa, and Ræst Lamb and Sauerkraut, alongside fermented drinks such as a rhubarb mocktail, Assam Kombucha and North Atlantic Akvavit (a distilled Nordic spirit). Prices start from DDK 950 (£112) for the tasting menu. Restaurant Ræst is open until 30 September 2023.

Heimablídni expands, with new home hospitality offering

Across the islands, from Nólsoy to Suðuroy, you can enjoy authentic and intimate dining experiences in people’s homes. The Faroese have a word for such home hospitality: ‘heimablídni’. Heimablídni not only introduces visitors to traditional homemade Faroese food in convivial surroundings, but also offers guests the chance to hear interesting stories about the area or village in which they are staying. A new guesthouse to the Hanusarstova farm on Eysturoy is opening. A young couple, Harriet and John, have taken over the property from parents and now offer overnight stays to sit alongside their home-dining experiences.

Vegetarians rejoice with RUTs

While Faroese cuisine might traditionally be largely meat and fish based, last year a new dedicated vegetarian offering opened in response to increased demand for plant-based culinary options. Located at Hotel Føroyar in Tórshavn, Ruts serves mainly local and seasonal ingredients, has both vegetarian and pescatarian set menus and has stunning panoramic views of Tórshavn, Nólsoy and the fjord. Highlights from the vegetarian menu include Beetroot Tartar, Jerusalem Artichokes, Pear & Truffle Oil and Blue Cheese Tart with Figs. Elsewhere, existing restaurants, mainly in the capital of Tórshavn, also have some vegetarian and vegan dishes on their menus, including Sirkus Föroyar, Bitin and Suppugarðurin which serves ramen https://suppugardurin.fo/en/

Say ‘Oy!’ to beer with new brewpub

Beer brewing has been booming in the Faroes for some time now, with a few microbreweries popping up on the islands; this year, a brand-new brewery is opening to give visitors something new to sip on. A team of Faroese entrepreneurs has collaborated on Tórshavn’s latest brewery, OY. OY is a shortened word for ‘oyggj(ar)’, meaning ‘island(s)’. OY will initially focus on brewing and selling mainstream beers – such as pilsner, strong beer, IPA, and cider – before adding special beers to its catalogue. OY will be much more than just a brewery, functioning as a brewpub; it will offer beer tastings and tours, plus there will be a shop brimming with OY products and a restaurant with a Faroese take on beer pub meals like bacalao brandada and beer battered fish.

Eat what you catch on the island of Eysturoy

A new fishing experience on the island of Eysturoy offers a truly authentic day out. For foodies, few things are more satisfying than dining on your very own catch, fresh from the sea that same day. Sailing from the marina of Funningsfjørður in a traditional Faroese boat, glide through the dramatic landscape – which includes Slættaratindur, the highest mountain on the Faroe Islands – plus the picturesque village of Elduvík, along with Elduvíksgjógv, a gorge that villagers have used as natural harbour for centuries. After a few hours of fishing and sightseeing, visit the home of local famers Frida and Poul Johannes in Elduvík to enjoy the freshly-caught fish, which could include haddock or Atlantic cod, as part of a wonderful meal. Fish, Visit & Dine in Elduvík costs DKK 1,955 (£235) for adults and DKK 895 (£105) for children aged 1-13.

Further afield – Other Faroese foodie happenings

Cafe Fiskastykkið, is located in a warehouse next to a century-old fish drying area, from which the café takes its name. Opened in June 2019, this café serves tasty, wholesome breakfasts, lunches, and great coffee in the village of Sandavágur. All the dishes are homemade with hearty local ingredients, sample dishes on the menu include Kálspannukøka (Kale Crêpes) with Bacalao, cabbage, pickled red onion, gooseberries and crème fraiche, or a Winter salmon with cured salmon, poached egg, herb mayo and croutons or homemade waffles with rhubarb cream plus enjoy delicious cakes made by the café’s skilled confectioner. The café also offers fun courses and events throughout the year using local suppliers where possible, and it’s not just the food, they also use plates and other crockery created and designed by local ceramist, Guðrið Poulsen.

The island of Sandoy

The Sandoy region is known for its agricultural focus, with numerous greenhouses, potato fields and a farming community. A Food and Soil Culture School in Sandur, called Grøni Háskúlin á Sandi, the green school on Sandoy, was established in 2020 and offers short courses focusing on food (including bread making), agriculture and sustainability. Caféin á Mølini, or the café by the pebble covered beach, has a rich history, spanning four generations, which includes many uses – as a shop, a post office and for beer storage. The current owner, and great-granddaughter of the original owner, Birita Dalsgaard, has opened a guesthouse, with 10 ocean-view rooms. The Greenhouse Veltan is a community of green-fingered individuals who grow produce (salad, cabbages, carrots, leeks, roots, potatoes, peas and more) for their own kitchens and for sale through the community (including Vágsbotnur in Tórshavn). Visits can be arranged on request (priced DKK 100 pp).

To learn more about the Faroe Islands, visit www.visitfaroeislands.com

Daily flights to the Faroe Islands from Edinburgh operate year-round and cost from £200 pp return. Visit www.atlantic.fo for further information.

Choose from a selection of hotels, guesthouses, cottages, self-catering apartments and campsites in the Faroe Islands. Visit www.visitfaroeislands.com/en/where-to-stay/ for further information.