Petra Shepherd is enchanted by the natural beauty and delicious food high in the Austrian Alps.
Saalfelden-Leogang an area of SalzburgerLand around 70 km southwest of the city of Salzburg is one of the largest and most popular hiking regions in the Austrian Alps. It’s also a region renowned for fine cuisine (thanks to the high concentration of organic producers and sustainable farming practices), stunning scenery enhanced by the picturesque backdrop of the Steinerne Meer and Leoganger Steinberger mountains and some top-notch hotels.
I visited in early September, a perfect time to visit with clear blue skies, warm temperatures and few crowds, my base the beautiful 5* Hotel Krallerhof, one of the most celebrated hotels at the heart of the Austrian Alps. Less than 2km from the Asitzbahn lift, the hotel recently opened Atmosphere by Krallerhof, an impressive spa with separate adults-only and family areas. The spa’s opulent facilities include spacious wellness and water zones, saunas, whirlpools, and a yoga studio. Outside, the hotel’s alpine Zen Garden and water staircase complement the heated 50m infinity pool incorporated into a vast natural swimming lake. For an avid swimmer, it’s absolute heaven. The hotel has always stood for innovation embracing new concepts with the iconic spa offering a new dimension of relaxation, wellness and quiet luxury.
However, as much as I could have spent all day being pampered in the spa or soaking up the views whilst doing my lengths in the infinity pool, I’d come to the region to hike and the latter didn’t disappoint. A guided 3 hour, easy to moderate 6.4 km / 410 m hike up to Birnbachloch included some interested facts about the effects of climate change and the measures the region is taking to adapt. The hike starts in the Ullachtal valley in Leogang and guides you through a forest, then across green meadows and finally through a slightly rockier terrain up to the Birnbachloch (1219 m). The Birnbachloch is a karst spring with a 20m wide “entrance hall”, where the Birnbach River has its spring. Close by is the Birnbachoch glacier, one of the lowest glaciers in Central Europe. In the 19th century, the glacier was used to fill up the ice cellars of Munich beer breweries. The ice was transported to the valley via several hundred-meter-long wooden slides.
The Hotel Krallerhof is located next to the Steinbergbahn valley station from where you can access Europe’s largest e-bike region, one of the largest bike parks in Europe and 18 designated trail running and walking routes. The local mountain Asitz, borders Saalbach Hinterglemm and has a unique trail (the Loes Game Trail) to the Naturkino (cinema of nature).
This is a fabulous trail for all generations, which starts at the top station of the Asitz- or Steinberg lift. Along the way, there are lots of activity stations, where children are invited to climb, balance and play. Meanwhile adults can enjoy a wonderful circular trail leading to the top of the Großer Asitz (1914m) and the natural cinema at Sonnkogel. The film so to speak at the Naturkino (cinema of nature) is essentially a stunning panoramic view enjoyed from a series of wooden loungers, chairs and outdoor hammocks. I gave “the film” a 5 star review on the day I visited, the views of Steinerne Meer and Leoganger Steinberge could have won an Oscar for cinematography any day. The Leos Game Trail is open from July to the Beginning of October. The two-hour easy hike continues along the five TONspur Islands back to the top station, this is a chance to enjoy beautiful concert music with amazing views. Each summer, the mountain becomes a stage for the TONspuren concert series, the islands themselves are wooden loungers with roofs over them (where music from the previous year’s concerts is piped), perfect for relaxing and enjoying the atmospheric music and breathtaking scenery. This is the kind of easy hike that is a pleasure not only for the eyes but the ears and soul too.
Food and hiking go hand in hand, who doesn’t love a Kaiserschmarrn at a mountain hut after all. A Kaiserschmarrn is a lightly sweetened pancake that takes its name from the Austrian emperor Franz Joseph I, who was fond of this fluffy shredded pancake. It is served as a dessert or as a light lunch alongside apple sauce and contains raisins or dried cranberries. I can also recommend you try a totally unique “eat your hat” meal at Huwis Alm, a rustic alpine restaurant with views over the Leogang Valley or Steinberge Mountains. A hot iron hat is placed in the middle of the table on which you literally stick prepared marinated fillet pieces of beef, pork and turkey. While the meat sizzles, a beef soup with finely chopped vegetables simmers in the “brim of the hat”. Baked potatoes, various homemade sauces and other side dishes round off this culinary feast perfectly.
September is at the height of the Bauernherbst (harvest) season when farmers welcome the public to visit and try some of their local produce. At Zieferhof Farm, owned by the Lottersberg-Perwein family since 1899 I enjoyed their natural yoghurts, homemade bread and cheese. Respect for the environment is paramount. SalzburgerLand leads Europe in green technology and sustainability, boasting the highest concentration of organic producers in Europe. Not one to turn down a tipple, a distillery tour of Stockis Distillery a short walk from Hotel Krallerhof allows you to taste and purchase dozens of varieties of schnapps.
For nature-lovers, hikers, bikers or for those just looking for some pampering and a health boost Hotel Krallerhof and Saalfelden Leogang proves a winning combination
Fact Box
For more information visit https://www.salzburgerLand.com and https://www.saalfelden-leogang.com
Petra stayed at https://www.krallerhof.com
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