Rupert Parker follows in the famous footsteps of Bach and Mendelssohn
Germany, a country rich in history and culture, is not only known for its stunning landscapes and historic landmarks but also for its vibrant music scene. In the heart of Saxony, Leipzig stands as testament to this musical legacy. It was here that the great Johann Sebastian Bach, one of the pillars of Baroque music, composed some of his most celebrated works.
In the last few years, the city has undergone something of a rebirth, despite being substantially destroyed during WW2, and then undergoing a long period of austerity under the communists. Where possible, ruins have been rebuilt and, in the gaps, new buildings blend harmoniously with the historic. Even the massive Augustusplatz, with the Oper Leipzig opera house standing opposite the glass-walled Neues Gewandhaus concert hall, has a new lease of life.
Johann Sebastian Bach
Appointed as Cantor to the Thomasschule in 1723, Bach spent 27 years providing music for four churches in the city including the Thomaskirche and Nikolaikirche. Part of the job was instructing the students in singing and the Thomanerchor, founded in 1212, with young boys drawn from the surrounding area, already had a strong reputation.
In Bach’s time, the choir consisted of about 50 singers, of which the best 16 were used for performance of his cantatas. Nowadays it numbers 100, with boys aged eight to 18, and you can hear them for a tiny charge every Friday and Saturday inside the Thomaskirche. Outside is an imposing bronze sculpture of the composer paid for by Mendelssohn.
Opposite is the Bach Museum containing original manuscripts and personal items, including the console of an organ inspected and approved by Bach himself in 1743, a casket containing relics from Bach’s tomb, and a recently discovered travel trunk. Interactivity is a feature and you get the chance of arranging a Bach chorale or guessing the date of one of the manuscripts. You can also listen to everything he ever wrote, at the push of a button, or acquaint yourself with the sound of individual baroque instruments
Gewandhaus
Leipzig is also home to the oldest civic symphony orchestra in the world. The orchestra’s nucleus was the concert society Das Große Concert, founded in 1743, and adopted the name Gewandhausorchester in 1781. By the 19th century, it not only staged its own concerts, but also played for the opera and accompanied the Thomanerchor – a tradition that still survives.
The Gewandhaus was severely damaged at the end of WW2 and it was not until October 1981 that a new hall was ready to open its doors and provide a permanent home. Every two years, the orchestra celebrates the works of a single composer and in May 2025, Shostakovich gets the honour, on the 50th anniversary of his death. On my visit, I’m lucky to hear their preview of his tenth symphony, a fantastic performance enhanced by the sublime acoustics of the hall.
Opera
Opposite the Gewandhaus, across the square, Leipzig Opera is the third oldest opera house in Europe. The original building was destroyed during the war by RAF bombs just after a performance of Wagner’s Valkyrie. It was rebuilt in 1960, an example of functional Communist architecture, but it’s comfortable enough inside and has the largest stage in Germany.
When I was last here, I saw a stunning production of Wagner’s Flying Dutchman, complete with full size three masted ghostly schooner. This time I’m lucky enough to get seats for an eco-friendly production of the 1977 opera Mary Queen of Scots by Thea Musgrave. The production design uses recycled tables, furniture and clothing with stunning effect in a terrific performance.
Felix Mendelssohn
Felix Mendelssohn was born in Hamburg but came to Leipzig in 1835 to become music director of the Leipzig Gewandhaus orchestra and worked with the opera house, the Thomanerchor and the city’s other choral and musical institutions. In 1843, he founded the Leipzig Conservatory and the city soon became the music capital of Germany. He died tragically young at 38, not long after his sister Fanny passed away.
The house where he spent the final years of his life is now a museum dedicated to the two of them and the rooms upstairs, where the Mendelssohn family lived from 1845, is furnished in authentic late Biedermeier style. There’s also a small concert hall here which has performances every Sunday morning. I get a taster with a short piano recital.
Factbox
Leipzig Travel has information about the city.
From 15 May to 1 June, 2025 the Gewandhaus stages a comprehensive examinations of the works of Dmitri Shostakovich.
Oper Leipzig will also present his opera Lady Macbeth.
The Mendelssohn House has a list of concerts.
Ryanair flies direct to Leipzig from London Stansted.
The Leipzig Marriot makes a comfortable base in the heart of the old town.
The Panorama Tower has food with a view from the 29th floor.
Auerbachs Keller is the oldest restaurant in the city with traditional German fayre.
Restaurant Weinstock is in the old market place and has tasting menus.
Tavern Barthels Hof is one of the oldest and most traditional inns in Leipzig.
Café Riquet is the city’s oldest coffee house, dating back to 1745.
Café Bachstübl is next to the museum in the Bach House.
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